The
information provided here is simply a helpful guide. Exact details and
information should be obtained from an authorized inflatable boat dealer
in your area.
What To Look For When Buying a New Boat
As you may already know, specialization in the design of today's inflatable boats is now in the forefront of the minds of the designers. Each distinct group is specifically designed for a different set of applications and is built and equipped with different components and equipment. Most inflatable boats today fall within one these specific categories.
If all you need is a small boat to get you from ship to shore, then a typical inflatable tender is the best answer. If you're after a medium sized boat for diving or watersports there are many choices as well. If a large rigid-hulled inflatable (Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB) for recreation, rescue or work is what you need, there are again many exotic designs available with a wide variety of standard and optional components. The choice is quite wide through the entire spectrum, ranging from very compact models with simple slatted or inflatable floors, to
larger tenders with inflatable or wooden keels and solid wooden or aluminum floors, up to the fiberglass or aluminum rigid-hulled inflatables. To avoid confusion, before buying, or even shopping for an inflatable, discuss and decide on exactly what the uses or requirements will be for your new inflatable boat. This will minimize the models to choose from, which in turn will minimize confusion.
Dealer Location and Reputation
The location of the dealer is important because you don't want to have to travel
too far for you inflatable boat needs. Whether it's parts, repairs or just
technical support and friendly customer service tips, a close dealer can be a
close friend. In particular, as a new boat owner and perhaps new to inflatable
boats, you may have questions, need to claim warranty, or need regular servicing
to maintain a warranty. Any way you look at it, closer is better.
Pricing
Years ago, inflatable boats where the most expensive boats on the market and only a few people could afford them. This was due to the use of exotic materials and the hours of meticulous hand labor which went into their construction. Now, the boats still use the best materials, but in the late seventies, the companies started investing millions of dollars in computer-driven assembly equipment. This enabled prices to be dramatically reduced as economies of scale rose, enabling more and more consumers to enjoy affordable inflatable boating.
Zodiac and its sister company, Sevylor, are now the leading low-cost producer thanks to these technological investments. So be wary of inflatable prices substantially below the Zodiac/Sevylor line. They may be either produced in developing countries by unskilled labor, or marketed by companies who are unaware of the importance of profit margins. They will be glad to see your dollar today but may be unwilling or unable to fix a problem later, or supply that much needed spare part.
Warranties
You may be enamored with competitor's claims, all of whom will promise they have the best or longest warranty. There was even a lifetime warranty offered some years ago by an inflatable boat company that soon enough disappeared. A lot of manufacturers use attractive warranties as a substitute for quality or proper boat design, or simply to shore up a lack of product features. You should also be sure in your own mind that the company will be around long enough to deliver. Zodiac has been building inflatables for over 50 years and offers a limited 5-year warranty. And they have the whereforall to be around for a long time.
What
To Look For When Buying A RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat)?
(A guide
on what to look for when buying a used RIB.)
We
have put together some key points for you to consider when looking for
that dream RIB to buy. We have also appended a ' Check List ' which can
be used as an aide memoir when pondering your impending decision.
Our
views and opinions are not exhaustive and we recommend that you talk to
trusted others, who may have additional information.
RIBs are a large investment and we strongly recommend that you
obtain advice from a qualified surveyor, before you splash your cash.
They are however great fun and should give you hours of pleasure and
adventure. Don't forget to
try out as many different makes of RIB as you can before you buy.
RIBs
have progressed from the utilitarian 4x4 of the sea, initially developed
for rescue and military use. Today
the recreational use of RIBs is well established. The massive inherent
buoyancy, low centre of gravity, and high power to weight ratio has made
today's RIBs thoroughbreds of the sea.
The RIB can be an extremely fast, safe seaboat, when properly
handled, and is seen in many guises as harbour runabouts, rescue
lifeboats, luxury tenders on megayachts, adventure craft on cruise
liners, race and cruise boats and others besides.
The
EEC issued a Recreational Craft Directive in June 1994 which also covers
the design and construction of RIBs.
Reputable RIB builders have progressively adopted this directive
since this time. The
directive identifies four Boat Design Categories:
A
- Ocean:
Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force F8
(Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4m and above, and the
vessel largely self sufficient.
B
- Offshore:
Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to and including wind
force F8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be
experienced.
C
- Inshore:
Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and
rivers where conditions up to and including wind force F6 and
significant wave heights up to and including 2m may be experienced.
D
- Sheltered Waters:
Designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals where conditions
up to and including wind force F4 and significant wave heights up to and
including 0.5m may be experienced.
Boats
from builders who meet the EEC directive will have two identification
plates attached on the RIB.
|
Hull
Identification with:
Manufacturer's code
Country
of manufacture
Unique
serial number
Year
of production
Model
year
|
Builder's
Plate with:
Manufacturer's
name
CE
Marking
Boat
design category
Manufacturer's
maximum recommended load
Number
of persons recommended to be carried
|
What
Type of RIB interests you?
You will probably have already seen many different deck layouts, so what
are these?
Rescue
/ Commercial / Services
Smaller
craft are often used by sailing clubs as safety cover and organisations
such as the RNLI use larger models fitted out with twin engine motors
and self righting gear. Commercial
models generally used for pilots and by the maritime protection agencies
often have a wheelhouse. Services
RIBs are usually about 7m, used by the marines and other waterborne
forces. Some types are be
recognised by the grey or olive green colouration of both hull and
tubes. You may spot the odd 'black' special services or smugglers model,
but don't ask too many questions or else they may have to kill you!
Diving:
Divers
usually sit on the inflatable tubes, including the Cox on some smaller
models, leaving plenty of deck space for kit and "treasure
trove". A single helm
console, jockey seat and bottle rack are the norm.
The tubes are set close to the waterline and in some cases the
hull freefloods to provide maximum stability at rest.
Sports
& Cruising:
Moulded
consoles and upholstered seating, stowage lockers, some even have a
bathing ladder and shower facility. A Cruising RIB is quite capable of
an English Channel crossing with a range up to 120 miles. Often with a
minimum of between 4 and 6 seats and serious electronics packages.
Cabins are also to be found on some models.
Racing:
High-performance
deep-V and more recently stepped hulled craft.
Normally they have only two seats.
These craft are capable of speeds in excess of 100 mph but more
typically 50 -70 mph. Special designs with lightweight but strong
construction, perhaps using kevlar composite material in the build.
What
to Look For - Key Parts of a RIB
Hull
& Deck
Inspect
the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray
rails and chines. Hairline
cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks
are the principal elements to look out for.
Either of these could indicate substantial damage.
Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure
points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat's appearance,
but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and
inexpensive repair job.
Deck
and transom damage is rare. However,
points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The
problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of
expense. Check the transom
around its base and its bearer’s knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can
be common, but generally do not indicate major damage. Nevertheless, check carefully.
Seating
and console upholstery condition are visually easy to see, but do check
the deck attachment of the console, the seat hinges and the
watertightness of any integral storage areas.
Check
the location of fuel tanks and battery, do you really want them both
located in the same deck space? One
spark and perhaps a 'bang'! Inspect
all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage.
Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be
replaced. This can be quite
expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility
into account.
Tubes
Inspect the buoyancy tubes for major repairs.
Check for half stuck patches as they are a good indicator of an
amateur repair job and consequent hidden dangers.
Such patches should be attended to as soon as possible.
Check
for previous repairs to the tube attachment, usually spotted by glue
stains. Pull at the fabric, to check that any gluing has been carried
out properly. In particular check the seam at the bow, along each
underside of the hull, the transom seams and the joining of the stern
tube cones.
A
lot of seams are covered by tape that can start to lift or become
totally detached. While on
some boats, the tape is purely a protective measure covering the main
seam below (a little glue is all that is needed to rectify the problem)
on others it is the main attachment.
In the case of the latter, then this can be the beginning of the
seams becoming unglued, which entails an expensive repair job.
The
RIB should have a minimum of 3 independent air chambers, preferably
more. To check the
condition of the baffles (the divisions between the air chambers)
deflate one tube at a time and inflate the other to a normal working
pressure, 1.5 to 3.0 psi. With your 'good' ear pressed against the tube
you should be able to hear any leakage of air from one chamber to
another.
Engine
& Steering
An inspection by a qualified person is the ideal solution; however, if
this is not always possible, we do suggest that you carry out the
following checks:
Remove
the cowl and inspect the engine for general condition, a clean engine
often indicates a careful owner. Look for signs of salt corrosion, most
importantly around the cylinder head. With the engine running check that
the water pump is functioning properly, pumping a sufficient volume of
water to cool the engine. Look
at the strength of the 'tell tail' which will give you a good
indication. Overheating can cause serious damage to the pistons and
bearings as well as twisting the cylinder head.
Check
for wear in the swivel bracket and engine mounts by attempting to shake
the engine, RIBs put huge loads on the engine mountings and suffer from
this type of deterioration if the engine has not been properly checked
and fittings tightened after every trip.
Check
the propeller for damage and look to see if the bottom of the 'skeg' is
also damaged, usually indicating that the engine has hit something at
sometime. Take the engine
out
of gear (with ignition switched off!) and rotate the prop slowly by
hand, checking to ensure that the propeller shaft is not bent.
Again with the ignition switched off or the kill-cord out, put
the engine in gear and pull the starter cord or turn the propeller by
hand. You should be able to
feel a resistance as each piston rises to compress the air in its
cylinders.
Loosen
the gearbox oil drainage plug and inspect what comes out.
The oil should be thick and transparent.
If it is not and appears to be thinner and murky, then water
contamination may have taken place and consequently damaged the gears or
bearings.
Ask
to see a service history. You
will probably be very lucky to find one, some enthusiasts do all their
own servicing and maintenance.
Steering,
usually cable or hydraulic on some of the larger engines or a
combination of both. Check the free movement of all cables, it's not uncommon for
steering cables to seize. It's
recommended changing them anyway on a routine basis. Not expensive but sometimes fiddly. Check condition of all fittings to steering box and engine.
If hydraulic steering, check oil level and look for leaks.
Move steering and check for 'play'.
General
Equipment
Personal
choice largely dictates what equipment should be on the RIB, expect that
not every pre-owned (let alone new) RIB will come complete with all the
equipment considered to be prudent to take to sea.
The British Inflatable Boat Owners Association sets down its
requirements for members who take their RIBs on the more challenging
events and these can be found at: www.biboa.co.uk
To give you a general idea we have listed below some items that should be
considered as part of the purchase of a used RIB.
|
Anchor
and Line
An
anchor of a weight and type adequate to hold the boat with at least
30 metres (inshore), 50 metres (offshore) of line with 3 metres of
chain.
Bailers
and Bilge Pumps
Bailers
or buckets and either manual, automatic or electric bilge pumps
(particularly on inboard engine installations).
Fire
Extinguisher
A
fire extinguisher. Inboard engines should have an automatic fire
extinguisher system installed in the engine compartment.
|
Hand
or Foot Pump
A
hand or foot pump capable of being operated below the gunwale.
Paddles
A
minimum of two paddles.
Painter/Mooring
Lines
Painter
and mooring lines. The
painter should be shorter than the length of the boat so as not to
foul the propeller should it fall into the water whilst underway.
Towing
Points
Cleats,
eyes and samson posts strong enough to tow the boat when
waterlogged.
|
The
items above are those which mainly 'look after the boat'.
Other important safety items, e.g. compass, flares, lifejackets,
VHF radio, medical kit, charts, etc., should be carried.
You can obtain professional advice on these items from your local
maritime safety agency or national boating association.
Trailer
Used trailers are generally in a poor condition and can sometimes seem to
be more of a liability than an asset. (But not always, especially if the
RIB has been regularly moved from cruise to cruise area).
Ensure it fits the boat, providing sufficient support, and
determine the existence and extent of rust, particularly in any box
sections.
Brakes
often become seized due to their frequent immersion in salt water, so
don’t be put off immediately if this is the case.
However, do check carefully how easily they release.
Inspect the cables, making sure they appear to be good condition. Lastly, check the brakes don’t scrape or bind when the
trailer is being towed.
Jack
up the trailer and check for play in the wheel bearings.
Also spin the wheel, listening for noise from the bearings.
If the bearings are noisy, then the trailer is not in a good state
to tow the boat. Always carry
a spare wheel bearing when towing on road.
Check
the Draw Bar and Hitch ensuring that the coupling bolts are tight.
Brake the trailer and attempt to manoeuvre the hitch, checking for
wear. Try to push the hitch back towards the trailer, it should slide
slowly with some resistance. It
should not slip in easily or seize up.
Winch
mechanism; check the strap for deterioration.
If there is a winch wire, then you’re better off replacing it
with a strap, as this is a much safer option.
Inspect the winch mechanism for jammed or worn pawls.
Trailer
board; check that there is one, and that all lights are working.
Finally:
- Try
your prospective RIB buy on the water.
Check
List - Buying a RIB?
Make/Model
.........................................................
Year ................
Price .............
First
impression/general condition................................................................................
What To Look For When Buying a Used Boat
One of the biggest problems when first looking at second-hand RIBs, is how to tell if the craft is really what you need. Some RIBs look very spartan and commercially orientated and therefore are unsuitable for family and sports use, however, these craft may be very tough and provide an excellent safe sea boat albeit without any luxuries. Other craft may look very well
fitted with comfortable seating, flashy consoles and plenty of instruments, but this does not mean necessarily that the hull is very capable in typical
sea conditions.
Up until quite recently the majority of hulls were based on the on the commercial dive boat layout and, generally, these are
pretty sturdy and seaworthy craft; however, more recently, a number of manufacturers have introduced a number of creature comforts which include wide wrap around consoles, thickly padded bench seating with grab handles and even cabins and cuddies to protect
crew from the elements. The Italian market has for some years led the way with this type of luxury layout, but with hulls that
were based towards calm waters and therefore not ideal in colder climes, however, they have recently changed their hulls to suit the rougher seas and many of the RlBs shown at this years Genoa Boat Show were sporting deep V-hulls.
Most makes of RIBs are a safe bet when looking for a sound investment and used prices are very strong, thus buying a new or used RIB is generally a much better financial proposition than a GRP sports boat or open day boat which tend to depreciate very
quickly. Perhaps because of their versatility and general social acceptance in marinas and harbours etc, where sports boats can
be frowned upon, that RIBs are new in the majority and to be on the water during a weekend confirms their amazing popularity.
Buying a used, or as the posh used car trade call them, previously owned, RIB can be a very confusing and in some cases expensive pastime, however, it is usually the mechanics of the engine and soundness of the trailer which require the most attention. Problems with engines can be very expensive and a thorough inspection by a qualified person is recommended. At the very least, the water pump should be pumping through the correct volume of cooling water. If it has a weak water flow from the tell tale it may be just a blocked outlet; however, if the water pump is not working correctly then overheating may have occurred and damage to the piston rings or bearings may have resulted. In this case, it is a must to have the engine checked by professionals.
The trailer requires the usual visual inspection paying particular attention to the draw bar and hitch, ensuring that the ball locking system is safe and operating correctly. The wheel bearings and brakes, if fitted, are the major areas for careful inspection. Brakes frequently become stiff or totally seized due to immersion in salt water and should be checked for correct operation. Wheel bearings should also be checked and this can be done by jacking up the trailer and checking for play, plus spinning the wheel and listening for bearing noise/rumble. If the bearings are noisy, do not attempt to tow the boat without first replacing the bearings; failure to do this can result in a very frustrating and potentially dangerous situation arising. Finally, the winch and, particularly the winch strap or wire, should be inspected. Do not rely on the winch alone to secure the front of the boat, always double up with a securing rope or strap just in case the ratchet on the winch is worn and jumps out of its locked position.
Buying a used RIB should be straightforward providing basic inspection shows no obvious flaws. Generally speaking, what you see is what you get and there should be no reason to suppose that if the tubes and hull appear fair that there are any hidden problems; however, the following obvious tips should provide a guide to the main problem areas.
Repairs Check
Check for major repairs to the buoyancy tubes. If there are professional repairs evident, then this should not present any problems; however, half stuck patches may indicate an amateur repair and these should be attended to as soon as possible.
Blown Baffles
Check for blown buoyancy tube baffles. This is easily checked by deflating the adjoining tube and inflating the inflated one to sufficient pressure so as to provide a firm and correctly inflated section. Any air transfer will be heard escaping into the deflated chamber. Place your ear close to the baffle (division between air chambers) of the inflated tube to magnify the noise.
Seams
Many seams are covered by tape which can become detached or start lifting. On some boats, this is purely a protective tape covering the main seam below, however, on other makes, especially where the tape is the same fabric as the boat and not just a light weight tape, then this may be main attachment between seams. If the former applies, then is nothing to worry about and a little glue will re-stick the tape easily. However, if the heavier wider tape appears to be lifting, consult an expert before proceeding with the purchase. On certain makes of boat, this can be the beginning of the scams becoming unglued and this can prove very expensive to put right. Some early PVC and polyurethane tubes were particularly prone to seam problems and when unsure as to the type of fabric in use, again, contact the manufacturers or an expert to ascertain the likely problems.
Hull to Tube Attachment
Careful inspection will show up any problem in this area and common sense should prevail, however, check for tell tale glue stains on the the GRP and tube which may indicate a previous problem that has been hastily repaired.
Glue Smears
Dark brown smears which are difficult to remove around the hull/tube joint may be just a careless clean up job from new; however, it may be
a repair so ask the seller and have a go at pulling at the fabric in that area to ensure the stick is good. Tubes that become detached at sea do not amuse the crew, although it has been known to create mirth amongst onlookers.
Hull Integrity
Check the hull for serious crazing, especially along the spray rails and chines. Any longitudinal cracks should be treated with great suspicion, but, even worse is a hairline crack that runs across the beam of the hull. This may indicate that the boat has a weakness which could result in an expensive repair or even worse a hull that is flexing due to loss of longitudinal strength through severe use or accidental damage. Any cracks should be checked thoroughly and a surveyor should be consulted if in any doubt. Minor star grazing, compression cracks and chips in the chines are generally cosmetic rather than structurally dangerous. To repeat, whenever in doubt get a surveyor or walk away.
Transom and Floor
This is seldom a problem although floors do become spongy in some makes of RIB. This can be caused by the floor becoming detached from its bearers or the plywood base becoming damaged through water or fuel ingression. The detachment of the deck can often be repaired by a professional boat builder by simply grinding back part of the GRP covering the plywood and re-screwing the deck down to the bearers and making good the GRP. If the floor is delaminating for whatever reason, then it may require part or all of the deck to be replaced. This is very expensive and can be difficult to execute so, once again, given the choice, don't bother and look elsewhere. The transom should be checked around its base and around its bearers knees. Often small cracks appear at the base of the transom especially if not supported by proper knees. The tops of the knees sometimes show cracks but neither of these means that there is something seriously wrong. Flexing of the transom caused by the fitting of a large engine engines can put enormous loads in this area and whist not unusual to experience these stress marks, it is worth taking a close look to ensure that no serious damage has been done due to flexing.
Console and Seating
Check for any obvious damage and condition of the upholstery, seat hinges etc. but, otherwise, nothing particularly serious should occur in this area; however, check the floor attachment area to ensure the console does not break out.
Fuel Tanks
Problems with breakdown at sea can often be attributed to polluted fuel cold there are many reasons as to how this can occur. Where portable tanks are fitted, check for rust or old fuel. Both can cause serious reliability problems. With fitted tanks, wherever possible try and check the fuel by smelling it to see if it has been standing for sometime and has turned varnishy. Also check all fittings, outlets, breathers etc., to ensure there are no leaks. A leaking inboard fuel tank can be expensive to repair and potentially lethal. It is possible to pressure test all fuel tanks but this requires a certain expertise and is best checked by a qualified engineer or surveyor.
Complete Package
Finally, check the engine-trailer-boat package are compatible and have been regularly maintained. Boats that are hardly used hardly used canbe just as troublesome as heavily used craft and vice versa. Outfits that have been properly maintained are usually reliable and well found and can provide a worthwhile investment for the buyer.
What To Look For
In a Dealer
As you may already know, specialization in the design of today's inflatable boats is now in the forefront of the minds of the designers. Each distinct group is specifically designed for a different set of applications and is built and equipped with different components and equipment. Most inflatable boats today fall within one these specific categories.
If all you need is a small boat to get you from ship to shore, then a typical inflatable tender is the best answer. If you're after a medium sized boat for diving or watersports there are many choices as well. If a large rigid-hulled inflatable (Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB) for recreation, rescue or work is what you need, there are again many exotic designs available with a wide variety of standard and optional components. The choice is quite wide through the entire spectrum, ranging from very compact models with simple slatted or inflatable floors, to
larger tenders with inflatable or wooden keels and solid wooden or aluminum floors, up to the fiberglass or aluminum rigid-hulled inflatables. To avoid confusion, before buying, or even shopping for an inflatable, discuss and decide on exactly what the uses or requirements will be for your new inflatable boat. This will minimize the models to choose from, which in turn will minimize confusion.
Dealer Location and Reputation
The location of the dealer is important because you don't want to have to travel
too far for you inflatable boat needs. Whether it's parts, repairs or just
technical support and friendly customer service tips, a close dealer can be a
close friend. In particular, as a new boat owner and perhaps new to inflatable
boats, you may have questions, need to claim warranty, or need regular servicing
to maintain a warranty. Any way you look at it, closer is better.
Pricing
Years ago, inflatable boats where the most expensive boats on the market and only a few people could afford them. This was due to the use of exotic materials and the hours of meticulous hand labor which went into their construction. Now, the boats still use the best materials, but in the late seventies, the companies started investing millions of dollars in computer-driven assembly equipment. This enabled prices to be dramatically reduced as economies of scale rose, enabling more and more consumers to enjoy affordable inflatable boating. Zodiac and its sister company, Sevylor, are now the leading low-cost producer thanks to these technological investments. So be wary of inflatable prices substantially below the Zodiac/Sevylor line. They may be either produced in developing countries by unskilled labor, or marketed by companies who are unaware of the importance of profit margins. They will be glad to see your dollar today but may be unwilling or unable to fix a problem later, or supply that much needed spare part.
Warranties
You may be enamored with competitor's claims, all of whom will promise they have the best or longest warranty. There was even a lifetime warranty offered some years ago by an inflatable boat company that soon enough disappeared. A lot of manufacturers use attractive warranties as a substitute for quality or proper boat design, or simply to shore up a lack of product features. You should also be sure in your own mind that the company will be around long enough to deliver. Zodiac has been building inflatables for over 50 years and offers a limited 5-year warranty. And they have the whereforall to be around for a long time.
How To Sell an Inflatable Boat
UNDER CONSTRUCTION. RETURN LATER.
Copyright 2002
Paragon Communications / All Rights Reserved
